Straight Razor Guide

Alright, for any and all interested:

A GUIDE TO STRAIGHT RAZOR USE

Of course, the author realizes not everyone would bother using such an old fashioned method of grooming. But as he himself does, he wants to share his advice.

Section One: Buying A Razor.

First off, do not go to a knife or sword shop and purchase a twenty dollar razor. They are 1)not sharp enough and 2) made of stainless steel, which is god-awful hard to get a sharp edge on. Instead, go to an antique shop or look on e-Bay or Amazon. Make sure the blade is carbon steel. While this can rust, if the blade you purchase is rust free, you will likely not need to worry. I likely don't need to say it, but: If you're looking at a razor and there is rust, DO NOT BUY IT.

If you have your heart set on a stainless blade, I would suggest Dovo razors. While I have never owned one, they seem to be some of the highest quality new razors out there. I will caution you on this option: Dovo razors are VERY expensive. You will pay good money for a fine stainless blade. Trust me, an old carbon steel razor will serve you just as well if not better.

When looking at a razor in an antique dealer, there are important things to watch for. Does the blade swing too freely? Does the blade wobble? Are there nicks or chinks on the edge? Are there any cracks on the handle? If the answer to any of these questions is Yes, I would suggest looking for another razor. All of these are signs of a razor needing (sometimes serious) repair. If not too obvious, there are not many people left who will professionally repair these things. They are few and far between. Of course, you could learn to do it yourself, but I don't care how nice a razor looks. I would much rather buy a razor in good condition than mess around trying my hand at amateur repair.

Section Two: Safety First.

There indeed is a reason why straight razors are nick-named "cut throats". If Sweeney Todd isn't proof enough of what you can do with this scalpel-like tool, I'm not sure I can convince you. Make sure to treat your newly adopted straight razor with the same care you would a steak knife. I've never cut myself too badly, but I can tell you it took three weeks for a nasty slice on my thumb to heal. I'll bring that example up again a bit later down.

As odd as it may sound, be sure to keep the blade sharp, sharp, sharp! A dull straight razor is a dangerous one. While using it in too dull condition, the edge will catch on your stubble and require a bit more pressure. When using this on your face and neck, I'm not sure you want to put too much force into your strokes. After all, there is this funny bleeding thing that may cause loss of life.

Like anything dangerous, keep the razor out of reach from children. Pretty simple, and rather easy to figure out. None the less, worth mentioning. If your razor's edge develops any nicks, consider honing the edge. If it is too badly nicked or chipped, you may wish to buy a new razor. With proper care, this issue should likely never happen.

Section Three: Caring For Your Razor.

As mentioned above, keep it sharp. To do this, you will need something called a strop. I would suggest buying one online, as they are fairly affordable and unlike a razor itself, purchasing brand new is not an issue. Some things to know about using a strop:

1. If you get one that is a "belt" model, you will need to anchor one end. Make sure the anchor is at waist level, as this will not strain your reach or require you to sharpen on an angle.

2. If your strop has both canvas and leather sides, use the canvas first. This will rough out the blade's edge a bit, while the leather will get the nice and fine edge. Of course, many strops don't have or need a canvas side.

3. Hand-held strops are out there, but less common. I've heard they are a bit easier to use, but not as flexible.

If you are like me, you can also make your own strop using a sturdy, smooth grain leather belt. I have also used a canvas belt as well, but as mentioned, the canvas is optional. While this home made strop has served me well, I myself have been considering spending the money on the real thing. When using the strop, make sure to use nice and even strokes. Build up a rhythm, don't put too much pressure on the blade, and keep the blade's spine (back edge) level with the strop surface. This will guarantee a sharp edge while minimizing possible damage to the strop and blade. While I myself sharpen the blade one side at a time, the more proper method is to switch sides with every stroke. This can be a bit tricky to master, so take your time. Otherwise, my method will work well, but it does require a little more time.

After using the razor for shaving, make sure to dry the blade if it is carbon steel. Having the blade wet or exposed to water for long amounts of time will, obviously, result in rusting. Just be careful not to cut yourself. Some experts say the razor blade should be oiled from time to time, but I would not place a huge amount of emphasis on this. As long as the razor is kept in a dry place, rust or excessive bluing should not be an issue.

Section Four: Classic Shaving.

I'm not going to give you a step-by-step description here, but there are a few things that make a straight razor different. Firstly, you may need to get used to using both hands, the left for shaving the right side and vice versa. There are also a few different ways you can grip a straight razor's handle, as it can be moved to varying degrees around the blade. Some grips are better when getting the area above the lip or on the jawline. My advice is to figure out which grip is most comfortable at any particular angle. Don't be afraid if the grip seems a bit awkward at first. Remember, this isn't the simply stick of a disposable.

I would also suggest that before you shave, run a towel or rag under some hot water. Make sure it isn't too hot, as you don't want to scald yourself. Soak the towel/rag with water, ring it out so it is damp (not dripping), and drape it over your lower face and neck. The hot towel will be both soothing and good for softening up your hairs. The towel/rag also comes in handy to wipe your blade off while shaving. I've discovered that unlike a safety razor, straight blades shouldn't be swished around in a sink basin. This is partially due to the blade's size and an odd resistance to getting the blade free of stubble and shaving cream/soap. Also, if you don't swish it in the sink, your less likely to damage your edge.

Now, the choice between shaving cream, gel, or soap. This writer uses a shaving soap, which requires both a lather cup/mug and a brush. While you may choose what you like, I've found the soaps to be a bit less messy and just as good as gel or cream. Make sure to take nice, smooth strokes on your neckline. If yours is prominent, you may wish to take a bit of care around the Adam's Apple. While you may get a decent result with only one pass, I suggest re-lathering your face and going for a second pass. This provides an incredibly smooth and close shave. On the first pass, personally, I use upward strokes on the neck and cheeks, while using downward strokes on the neck and cross strokes on the cheeks during the second pass. Depending on your hair's grain, you may have different direction.

For the first time user, take it slow and steady. Keep the spine of the blade fairly level with your skin, as this lowers the risk of cuts. Over time, you will become more comfortable with putting a bit of an angle to the blade, thus getting a better shave. That's why the safety razors disposable cartridges often have angled blades. Clever, no?

Of course, when done, just do what you always would. Splash on some after shave, clean up after yourself, etc. It is of note that you likely won't need a sink full of water for classic shaving. By using the towel or rag to wipe your blade on, there is no need for all that water. What do you know? This old fashioned method even has a few "green" qualities to it. Saving water, no disposable junk, etc.

Section Five: Some Final Comments.

OK, you may be thinking to yourself: Gosh, this sounds like an awful lot of work. I'm not going to lie, it is. But well worth the effort. For one thing, with a properly cared for razor, you will never need another one in your life. Heck, if you've bought a carbon steel blade, it's likely the darn thing is older than you! Impressive, no? Your only expense will be buying more shaving cream, gel, or soaps. I can also not stress the relatively soothing nature of a classic shave. While it is a bit more time consuming than the modern methods, there is something very nice about it. As one of my Yugoslavian friends once said: "This classic style, you are in the moment. You are focused on what you are doing, all other thoughts go away."

I'm sure what he meant was that because it requires more care and attention, you are letting other troubles fade for a bit. I would myself argue the hot towel is rather relaxing too. On the less aesthetic side of things, I have used both a safety razor and electric razor as well. Neither has provided as close a shave. The electric model I had even pulled on my stubble from time to time, causing a bit of pain. Your experiences, likely, differ. Of course, if you are reading this, you likely have considered these to be worse options then a "cut throat" shave.

Well, thats about it. There you have it, my advice on the art of a straight razor. I may not be a demon barber, but I've learned the art of the "knife". And so can you.